Changing strings is the most important maintenance task every guitarist performs. It takes 20 minutes once you’ve done it a few times, costs $6–$12 per set, and makes an immediate, audible difference to your tone.
Most players put off changing strings longer than they should because the process seems complicated before you’ve done it. After the second or third time, it’s automatic, 15–20 minutes, and your guitar sounds like new again.
This guide covers the complete process for both acoustic and electric guitars.
What You Need
- New strings (correct type for your guitar: acoustic, electric, or classical)
- String winder (optional but strongly recommended, speeds up winding significantly, $5)
- Wire cutters or string cutters ($5–$10)
- Tuner (clip-on or app)
- Clean cloth (optional but useful)
Before You Start: Change One String at a Time
Don’t remove all strings simultaneously on an acoustic guitar. The sudden tension change can cause the neck to shift slightly and the saddle to shift position. Change one string at a time, remove the old, install the new, move to the next.
On electric guitars, the tension change from full removal is less significant, but one-at-a-time is still the safer habit.
How to Restring an Acoustic Guitar
Step 1: Remove the Bridge Pin and Old String
Acoustic strings anchor at the bridge with bridge pins, small plastic or bone pegs that hold the string ball end in the bridge plate. To remove:
Loosen the tuning peg for the string you’re replacing until the string is slack. Most string winders have a notch designed to pull bridge pins, use it, or gently lever the pin upward with the winder. Don’t use anything sharp that could damage the bridge.
Pull the string up through the tuning peg hole and set aside.
Step 2: Clean the Fretboard (Optional but Recommended)
With a string off, you have access to that section of fretboard. A quick wipe with a clean dry cloth removes accumulated grime. If the fretboard is unfinished rosewood or ebony, this is also a good time to apply a small amount of fretboard conditioner (lemon oil). Don’t over-oil, a thin application wiped off is sufficient.
Step 3: Install the New String
Thread the ball end of the new string down through the bridge pin hole until it seats against the bridge plate. Reinsert the bridge pin alongside the string, the groove in the pin should face the soundhole, allowing the string to sit in the groove as the pin is pushed down. Pull the string gently toward the neck to seat the ball end against the bridge plate.
Step 4: Thread Through the Tuning Peg
Run the string up the neck and through the appropriate tuning peg hole (the low E string goes to the tuning peg at the bottom of the headstock on most acoustics, check before threading).
Step 5: Wind the String
Leave about 3–4 inches of slack beyond the tuning peg before starting to wind. Hold the string at the peg with one hand and wind the tuning machine with the other (using a string winder if you have one). Wind the string downward on the peg, the first two or three winds should go above the initial string position, then subsequent winds below. This creates a locking pattern that holds the string more securely.
Keep tension on the string toward the neck as you wind to prevent loose coils.
Step 6: Clip the Excess
Once the string is up to pitch, clip the excess string close to the tuning peg with wire cutters. Leave a small tail (5–10mm) rather than cutting flush, this prevents the string from slipping.
Step 7: Stretch and Retune
New strings stretch. Pull the string away from the body gently (not aggressively, just a firm pull) at several points along its length. Retune. Repeat 3–4 times until the string stabilizes at pitch without immediately going flat when stretched.
Repeat the entire process for each remaining string.
How to Restring an Electric Guitar
The process is similar to acoustic with two differences: electric guitars don’t have bridge pins, and the headstock design varies.
Step 1: Remove the Old String
Loosen and unwind the string from the tuning peg. Most electric strings thread through a hole in the post, once slack, they lift out. Depending on your bridge type:
- Fender-style bridges (Strat, Tele): Strings either thread through the body from the back (string-through) or through the saddle from behind. Pull the string through from the tuning peg end.
- Tune-o-matic (Les Paul, SG): Strings loop over the saddle. Unwind and lift off.
- Floyd Rose: Strings are locked at both the nut and bridge, this requires a different process. Loosen the locking nut and unlock the saddle with the included hex keys.
Step 2: Thread the New String
Thread the ball end through the bridge (from the back on string-through models, or hook it over the saddle on tune-o-matic bridges). Run the string up to the tuning peg.
Step 3: Wind at the Tuning Peg
Electric tuning pegs are typically oriented horizontally, strings wind inward toward the center of the headstock. Leave 2–3 inches of slack and wind downward, keeping winds neat and tight against the peg. 3–4 winds is typically sufficient on electric tuning pegs.
Step 4: Clip and Stretch
Clip excess string close to the peg. Stretch and retune as described for acoustic.
Common Mistakes
Winding upward (away from the headstock face): Winds should stack downward on the post, creating a more secure grip and keeping the break angle over the nut correct.
Too much slack / too many winds: Excessive coils on the peg create instability and tuning issues. 2–4 neat winds is plenty.
Forgetting to seat the bridge pin correctly (acoustic): If the ball end isn’t seated against the bridge plate, the pin will pop out when you tune up. Pull the string toward the nut as you insert the pin to confirm it’s properly seated.
Changing all strings at once on an acoustic: Temporary but worth avoiding as a habit.
Not stretching new strings: Skipping the stretch means the guitar will go out of tune repeatedly for the first few hours of playing.
How Often to Change Strings
As a reminder: regular players should change strings every 4–8 weeks for uncoated strings, or every 2–4 months for coated strings (Elixir, D’Addario XT). New strings before any recording session or important performance.
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